COVID-19 Travel: What to Expect When Visiting French Polynesia
After closing its borders on Feb 3, 2021 to international visitors, Tahiti and the rest of French Polynesia finally reopened to travelers from the US on May 1, 2021.
The re-opening is certainly welcome news to those keen to resume international travel and find an exotic locale for a summer destination. But don’t expect everything to be back to normal. Prior to booking your trip to paradise, would-be tourists need to know the French Polynesian government has strict entry and stay conditions (for example, you will need to take 3–4 COVID tests before and over the course of your trip).
I traveled to French Polynesia with my partner shortly after borders reopened and found everything to be disorganized. Travel agencies, airlines, airports, hotels, and customs officials were still getting used to the new requirements and procedures. We’d ask questions, and we’d get conflicting information. I’ve written down my experience here to help you navigate ambiguity and know what to expect when you get there.
Note that since COVID requirements change over time, be sure to check the latest information at https://tahititourisme.com/en-us/covid-19/.
Before your trip
Only travelers residing in the United States for at least 30 consecutive days before departure are eligible to enter French Polynesia’s beautiful islands. Vaccinated or immune travelers are not subject to a 10-day quarantine. Unvaccinated travelers will be required to quarantine for 10 days.
Regardless of vaccination or immunization status, all travelers are required to complete online registration forms and provide proof of a negative COVID-19 test prior to boarding their flights.
30–6 days before departure
- Complete the Demarches Simplifies form found on this link and upload a copy of your vaccination certificate. Once approved, you will receive an authorization to travel in your email.
- Apply on the ETIS platform. As with the Demarches Simplifies site, you’ll receive an ETIS receipt once approved in your email, along with a QR code.
- Fill out a hard copy of the sworn statement stating that you will abide by sanitary regulations upon arrival in French Polynesia. Obtain the form here.
3 days before departure
RT-PCR test performed (negative for COVID-19). This will be COVID test one of four you’ll take for this trip.
Print your authorization to travel, ETIS receipt, sworn statement, and results of your RT-PCT test. Bring these documents with you at check-in and upon arrival at Faa’a International Airport (PPT). If vaccinated, bring your CDC vaccination card as well.
At check-in
Note that if you fly Air Tahiti Nui, they do not allow online check-in. I suspect this is the case for other airlines to ensure you have all of your docs prepared, but it’s good to confirm with your airline.
We flew out of LAX, and Air Tahiti Nui airline staff had a table set up before the check-in counters where we presented our documents.
Arrival at PPT
This is where the fun and headache begin. It took us about 2 hours to deplane, get tested again, go through customs, pick up our bags, and leave the airport. Keep this in mind if you have connecting flights or are planning to hop on a ferry to another island.
COVID tests
After deplaning, you’ll wait in a long line for airport staff to check your name against the manifest, review your documents, and provide you with a COVID self-test kit if you’re staying in the islands for four or more days. They’ll have your name and duration of stay, so they’ll stamp your self-test kit with the date you need to take it.
Once you go through this line, you’ll then fall in line to get your second COVID test for this trip.
Note about the COVID tests: At this time, the tests upon arrival and during the stay are not charged to travelers. However, in the future, travelers will be responsible for the cost once the French Polynesian government establishes a payment plan. Check https://tahititourisme.com/en-us/covid-19/ for the most up-to-date information.
Passport control
Following the test, you’ll fall in another line to go through a random, nonsensical check before you reach passport control. At this stand, an official checked our name and gave us a blue wristband. When we asked what it was for, the official gave us an incoherent answer. Since this happened around 5AM, we were too exhausted to inquire further. We figured we’d find out soon enough. After passport control, you’ll pick up your bags and the results of your COVID test. If your test is negative, you’ll then proceed to customs and exit the terminal. We never did find out what the blue wristband was for, so we took it off, and no one asked us about it.
During your stay
Assuming all goes well and your COVID test upon arrival is negative, you’ll be able to enjoy the islands worry-free. However, if you are staying for more than four days, on your 4th day, you are required to take a rapid antigen test using the self-test kit provided at PPT (if you’re counting, this is now your third COVID test). The kit provided includes both an oral and nasal test. Instructions are included, but if you’ve taken enough COVID tests as I have, the process is self-explanatory. You can submit your test at a health center (locations are listed inside your kit) or drop it off at your hotel’s front desk.
A curfew is in effect on the islands of Tahiti and Moorea every day, between 10AM and 4PM through June 8, 2021 and from June 9, between 11PM and 4:00PM.
Masks are still mandatory in all indoor public places. This includes businesses, shops, and on public transport. Resorts do enforce them.
It’s worth noting you’ll find resorts mostly empty during the week as only US tourists are allowed in the country at the moment. This isn’t exactly a bad thing! We enjoyed having the pool all to ourselves and we were able to have a late check out at our overwater bungalow. Weekends do tend to be full as locals take the ferry to nearby islands for a quick holiday.
Departing for the US
Effective Jan 26, 2021, the US government requires all passengers two years and older traveling from any country to have a negative COVID-19 test upon entering the US. This mandate is regardless of vaccination status or nationality. Luckily, the French Polynesian government has made this process easy by having a clinic onsite at the airport. Clinic hours are from 3PM-7PM. Only passengers booked on an immediate departing flight will be accepted.
COVID testing
You must get tested and receive negative results before you can check in for your flight. You’ll find the registration desk for the clinic located a few feet from the Air Tahiti Nui check-in counters at the airport. At the registration desk, present your passport, plane ticket confirmation and pay for your test. The clinic offers RT-PCR or antigen tests. They’ll test you with whatever they have on hand that day. When I asked the tech if they were administering tests required to enter the US, she said, “I can’t confirm or deny that.” Hmm, strange.
The one I received that day was a rapid antigen test at the cost of XPF 5,700 (approx USD 57). Despite the tech’s refusal to confirm, it was the right test. Once you pay, you’ll go around the corner where you’ll fall in another line to get a nasal test. Techs then instructed us to log in to their clinic website to get our results, which were delivered in 30 mins. Take a screenshot of your results. You will present this at check-in along with a document attesting either a negative COVID-19 test result or recovery from COVID-19 and clearance to travel (this will be given to you while you wait in line for check-in).
Helpful tips
- On your departure day, allow ample time to get to the airport as the lines for the COVID test, and check-in can get pretty long. Be mindful of time if you’re coming from another island. In our case, we traveled by ferry from Moorea to PPT. It took almost 5 hours from the time we left our Moorea hotel to get tested at the airport, check-in, clear security, and arrive at our gate.
- I highly recommend that while you’re waiting for results, you fall in line at your airline’s check-in counter. Doing so will help cut down on your wait time.
- Ensure you have all documents ready (screenshot of negative COVID test, passport, any other travel documents) when you reach the check-in counter! Many travelers were unprepared when it was their time at the counter, causing the frustratingly long wait. Please be kind to all your fellow travelers and come prepared.
It’s worth noting that no instructions or guidance- written or verbal- were given by the airline staff. Instead, we saw multiple airline employees milling around, standing by, and watching the lines get longer and longer.
Once you check in, you’ll go through security and immigration control as usual. There was no wait for either, thank goodness. After we reached our terminal, we relaxed at the Air Tahiti Lounge and toasted to a memorable trip.
Bottom line
It sounds like a lot of work to plan this trip, and I will be honest, it was. However, it was worth it. We chose French Polynesia as our first international trip because of its stringent requirements. The government’s rules gave us a piece of mind that it was safe to travel there. It may seem like you have to jump through a few hoops, but once you are on the islands, enjoying the azure waters and white sand beaches, all the tests and documents will be a blip in your travel memory. Just be prepared, and hopefully, this article will help take out any stress or anxiety you may have!
Be sure to check the latest information on entry and stay requirements for French Polynesia at https://tahititourisme.com/en-us/covid-19/ and the United States at https://travel.state.gov/.
As I traveled soon after the borders reopened, I’d love to hear others’ experiences. Has the government worked out all the kinks? Are waits still just as long? Are the airlines and hotels still disorganized?
